Lasso The Moon

Boys Room :: Before

 

It pains me to show you the pictures I'm about to post here.  Despite all of the fun, home-making projects I've thrown myself into in the past several years, there is one room that has remained largely untouched through it all.

The Boys Room. 

Now truly, "boys room" is  a misnomer for the time being.  Ethan lives there, but so does Esther.  The reason I call it the boys room is that as soon as Eli is old enough to sleep safely on the bottom bunk, he and Esther will switch, and the boys will be in the boys room together at last.  I know it's still more than a year away from this, but in my experience, children grow way faster than my DIY self can keep up, so I'm beating them to the punch this time.  (That seems like an awfully violent metaphor in reference to my kids...I assure you that in all of our boxing matches, I let the little ones have the first swing.)

Regardless of who will be living in this room, something had to be done about it immediately.  Because this is what it looked like a couple weeks ago--right after Ethan told me he'd finish "cleaning" it:

I would give the kid a hard time about calling this room clean, except that almost every element is working against him.

Take this wall for example.

1. The truck shelf is supposed to be for matchbox cars, but it's way too high, and it has never been used as a shelf since we got it.

2. The row of hooks makes for very easy clean up, but it is way overused, with each hook piled 5 items deep in some cases.

3. The toy box holds our large, constantly-played-with collection of dress up clothes, but having a flat surface right next to the door makes it all too easy to dump things there, and then it's impossible to get to the dress up without everything on top sliding onto the floor.

4. The strangely high window has been barren of window treatments since the day we moved in.  Well, we did add the blinds, which are excellent for privacy. (We got them at blinds.com and would use them again in a heartbeat!)  But I bought the fabric for the curtains a lonnnnnng time ago, Donnie hung the curtain rod for me, and I got distracted by other things.  Like having babies...

5. The top of the shelf is supposed to be for displaying legos in progress, or favorite items, but instead it is the perfect place to pile everything that was on the floor when Mom tells you to clean your room. 

6. The shelf itself is great for holding tons of toys, and even some clothes--all hidden inside those file boxes.  But truly, in our 10x10 room, it is taking up a bit too much floor space--space that could be used for actual playing!

6.  This is the worst view of all.  Yes, it's true.  I am ashamed to say that my children have Disney characters on their bedding.  This was never supposed to happen.  I have way better taste than that!  These were given to them by a loving grandmother so that they could keep warm until I finished their quilts.  That I started in 2010.  In my defense, I started them, and then I became pregnant with Esther and could not get it together enough to finish them.  Seriously, that's what pregnancy does to some people.  It makes them not care about anything, even Disney characters as decor.  But I'm not pregnant anymore, and it's time for this decorating crime spree to end.  The time is now.

7. Lastly, while this sturdy dresser is cute and well-made, there are two kids using it for almost all of their clothing.  If I could find something that was a little less deep, and a little wider--possibly a six-drawer option--that would be perfect.

So, you have seen the befores, in all of their embarrassing glory.  Tomorrow I'll share some of my inspiration and ideas for the room.  And then we'll get to work!

What are you working on right now to make your house more "you"?  If you are brave enough, share with us what your equivalent of the "disney bedding compromise" is in your home--and what you plan to do about it.

::

This post is part of my "house into home" series, that I started as one of my resolutions for 2013.  Read about this and my other resolutions here.

 

A New Patchwork Top for My Old Patio Table

In the last couple of months we have done some work on our back yard.  We hadn't planned on doing any updates back there until maybe next year--after all, this year is about the inside of the house--but sometimes one thing leads to another...

After a freak late-season hail storm we had to get a new roof.  The roof to the back porch also needed to be replaced, but we didn't want to roof a porch we didn't want to keep, so Donnie replaced the old porch.  In three days!  That led to putting some stone out to extend the porch area and cover some grass-less dirt, which led to adding some grass, which led to planting some new pots to set on the new stone...

So now that our outdoor space was looking a little more inviting, we started spending more time back there.  Maybe even eating a meal outside if it wasn't too hot.

And that's what led to today's project.  We bought our outdoor table when we lived in Indiana, and when there were only three of us. 

We love our little table with its cute curly iron legs, but at 30x30 inches, it's kind of a joke now that there are six of us, and sometimes more if we have family over.  Ok, I'll be real.  It is ridiculously tiny.

On top of that, the tile top was looking a little shabby. 

This damage happened one winter when we got 10 inches of snow in a single day.  Mexican tile just wasn't made for cold weather.

I knew I wanted to work with my old table, and since I didn't want to spend any more of my home-improvement budget than I had to, I got a little creative.

I found a stack of leftover 1x4's stashed in the garage.  I think there were 5 of them.  I cut each one to 5ft long, the length of my new table top. 

But there was a good bit left over from each cut (3ft), so I used pocket holes to screw them together, end to end, to make one long board. That's where the patchwork comes in.

Then I cut those to 5ft too.  I needed 10 boards total to cover my 30-inch table with a little overhang, so I had to buy a couple new ones, but this could easily be done with all re-purposed or leftover lumber.

Once I had 10 boards cut at 5ft (60 inches) each, I laid them out how I wanted them. 

I alternated the solid boards with the patchwork boards, and I made sure that each end was also a solid board, just to make sure there wouldn't be too much stress on those joined pieces.

I made pocket holes in each of the boards to screw the whole thing together in a solid sheet.  This took a little bit of time.  Picture this: I was working around 4 kids while Donnie was out of town, so I had to stop and start A LOT.  It was like: drill holes in one board, unload the dishwasher, drill holes in one board, fold a load of laundry, feed the baby, drill holes in one board, break up a fight, etc.  It got a little crazy town at times, but it is impossible to get anything done if I'm not willing to work around the crazy.

I was also working on the living room floor so I kept having to say, "Stop running across that table top! Don't step on those boards! That is not a balance beam! No you can't pretend that board is a light saber!" Stuff like that.  I was glad when this step was finished.

After all the holes were drilled, I screwed them together.  This was the fun part, as I watched the boards become a solid piece.  Seriously the pocket hole system is really genius.

After I had made the solid top, I needed to make the frame for the old table to fit into.  I measured and traced the old top onto my new top.  I probably should have given myself an extra 1/8 inch each way, as the fit was VERY tight at the end.  But it worked even without that.

I made the frame from 1x2's.  The measurements for the 30-inch table frame were 2 boards at 30" and two cut at 31.5".  I didn't have a counter-sinking drill bit (is that even what it's called??) so I used my pocket hole drill to make gorgeous holes in the tops of the 1x2's so the screws wouldn't show at the end.  I love those bright ideas that pop into your head at exactly the moment you need them!

Once I screwed the frame together, I tried it on the table.  I'm glad I did this, because there was only one direction that it would fit.  I marked the table top so I'd know which way to turn it at the end.

I lined up the frame with the pencil marks I'd made and screwed the frame straight to the top using the same 1 1/4" screws as the rest of the project.

I know one of the whole purposes of pocket holes is that you don't have to fill them in because they are hidden under the project, but I kept picturing bugs making nests in those cozy little crevices.  So I filled them all up with spackle and let it dry.

Then it was time for the finish.  After sanding my heart out, softening the corners and making sure all the end boards were nice and flush, I wiped on a coat of Early American stain.  I did the underside too, at least on the outside of the frame, where it might show if someone bent down to pick up their dropped corn on the cob at dinner.

Then I set the tabletop in place over the old table, and brushed on a slightly-wobbly coat of white.  I followed the joined lines with my brush, leaving the tiniest bit of stained wood showing. 

I got the idea for this finish from Ashley at the Handmade Home. (In fact, when I found this, I was surprised to see that she had made a very similar table topper for her patio fire pit!) I gave it a second coat of white, and then sanded the entire thing with a super-fine-grit paper (220), just to expose a little more of the grain and make the paint feel extra smooth. 

The last step was to rub on/rub off a thin coat of stain.  (I did the same with the turquoise bench and the library shelves.)  It helped to tone down the just-painted-bright-white look, so that it blended better with the natural tones of the backyard.

I am so happy with how this turned out.  Since I used mostly what I had from other projects (paint, stain, wood), I think the entire thing cost me about $15. And this table, although it is still a fairly small table, is so much more practical.  I have already spent hours out here--reading, watching the kiddos play in the sprinklers, planning new projects, or serving lunch now that there is actually room for the people AND the food.

At least, that's how I was using it before the triple-digit heat wave finally hit.  Now I'm admiring the table through the window, from the comfort of my air-conditioned living room.  Maybe I'll be able to sit out there again in October.

 

Linking to:

Thrifty Decor Chick

Emma's Secret Library Shelves

 

As soon as Emma could read fluently, she started reading constantly.  She reads anything she can get her hands on.  During the school year, when her teacher required 20 minutes of fun reading per night, it was all I could do to keep books around that she hadn't already read.

While the love of books is awesome, the storage of books can be problematic.  Emma's room is about 10'x11' with a tiny closet.  There's not any room for a big bookshelf, and now that baby brother has moved in, the space is tighter than ever.

There are of course a few non-storage solutions for the avid reader.  The library is great, because you can give them back.  We also like to pass books on to friends who love to read.  And while Half Price Books gives almost nothing in exchange for them, I get a rush from taking in a huge box of books we don't want, and coming back with one or two that I actually do want.  Gain some space, get a great new book.

But what about the favorites?  The books that we want to keep forever, the books that are next on the must-read list, and the books she wants to re-read still need a place to hang out til their time has come.

Emma and I have been stashing them wherever we can.

The closet is piled high.

This box used to hold Esther's diapers and wipes.  Now it holds books.  And other crap.

Aunt Elizabeth sent a box of classics in the mail, and instead of putting them away, we added more books to the box.

That was the last straw.

But where can you store books when there is just no space to spare?

I walked around and around the room, and that's when I spotted it.

That spot between the bedroom door and the closet door!

I turned to the Ana White website, and it turns out (of course) she had the perfect plans just waiting for me there.

Her shelves are 24 inches wide, but I wanted to make the most of the space, so I lengthened mine to 26 1/2 inches.

The trickiest step is cutting the end caps.  You have to use a jigsaw, but I thought that was fun.  I love seeing identical handmade objects in rows or stacks.

The rest of the shelves were so simple to put together.

I think the total assembly time was about an hour for all four shelves.  I used pocket holes and had to change the order the boards were attached to make sure all the holes would be hidden in the end.  (Attach the back of the shelf last.)

After sanding them to soften the lumber's crisp corners, I painted them with a coat of "Honey Bear" from Behr.

Emma's walls are aqua, and I love the vintage look that comes from the unexpected combo of aqua and golden yellow.

After the paint had fully dried, I scuffed up the corners again with a fine grit sandpaper, and rubbed wood stain over the entire surface.  This is the same finish I used on the entryway bench, and I love how it makes it look a bit time-worn.

Ready to see the secret library?

I still can't believe there's a whole library wall behind this door.

A close-up of the stain-rubbed paint finish.

This 27-inch stretch of wall space is finally pulling it's own weight.  I can't wait to make the rest of the room work this well for us.

These shelves are shallow, but they really do hold quite a few books.  I probably could have fit one more, but I like how there's plenty of space for some tall books or other flat items.  We were able to empty the two boxes of books, and still have room to spare.  The closet books are still in the closet, but this creative space making thing is a process. I have a couple other ideas up my sleeve for those guys.

The total cost for the shelves was about $30--including the finish.  I looked up similar shelves on Pottery Barn's website, and they cost $39 each!! And they're not as long as mine, and only come in black or white.  I feel like I just saved myself $130 by building my own.

Now I'm looking behind every door in the house, brainstorming what kind of shelves I can stash there.  I've already started some for Ethan's room.

One tip to remember, before you make your own shelves for behind the door, hold a 1x4 perpendicular to the wall to make sure the door will freely open after they are up.

Do you have a creative space-making tip to share?  Leave it in the comments!  Links are welcome!

And if you don't already follow me on pinterest, I'm always pinning new fun ideas on this subject.  Plus, I'm really close to 800 followers--maybe you could get me there!

Follow here.  And just hover over any of the photos on this post to pin them to your own boards.

Till next time!

Anna

::

Linking to:

Thrifty Decor Chick

Elijah's Tree Top Mobile :: Tutorial

Hey, friends!  Remember the other day when we made some new sheets for Eli's crib?  Since he's going to spend a little more time in this corner, I threw together a mobile for him to watch using stuff we already had around the house.

1. The first step is to make the leaves.  Starting with the smallest layer, stack it onto the next layer and sew around the edge with even whip stitches.  For each leaf, I stacked 3-5 pieces of felt, ending with a dark green each time.

These leaves used up tons of felt and embroidery floss scraps.  (I LOVE using up supplies.)

2. While you are sewing, send the kids outside to find a variety of sticks.  My kids found me about 15 sticks, and I ended up only using 6-7 of them.  Pick your favorites and paint them.  I chose my favorite color scheme--blue, greens, and orange.

By the way, have you seen all those great craft supply organizing ideas on pinterest?  Awesome.  But my paint stash looks like this.

It probably always will. 

3. Start assembling your mobile.  The trick to making a balanced mobile is to start at the bottom and work your way up.  Start with the bottom stick, sew or tie some leaves to each end, and then balance that stick on your finger.  It probably will balance a little off center--that's what you want.

When you find your balancing point, mark it with a pen.  Tie a piece of twine (12 inches or so) at the balance point, and hold it from the string.  If it still looks balanced, secure with a dot of hot glue.

Repeat this process a couple more times.  Then add one or two of these balanced sticks to the ends of another stick.  Find it's balance point and use twine and glue to hold it together.

4. Hang your pretty mobile for a little one to enjoy.

I think he likes it!

Want to see some of the other mobiles we've had hanging around?

Here are some links!

For the Love of Birds

Esther's Paper Birds

Esther's Paper Birds -- Mobile Pattern

 

Sew Your Own Crib Sheets

 

Elijah is two months old now, and it's time for him to spend a little more time in his crib.  And a little less time in my bed.  This transition is always a gradual one in our house.  I like to put him in there for a couple naps a day, maybe some awake time, and add in some night sleeps after a little while. Pretty soon he'll feel comforted by the crib, and I'll leave him in there over night.

After I cleaned out all the junk that had piled into the unused crib since Esther moved out of it, I wanted to make him something a little more special than the plain white sheet that had been in there before.  I'm not using bumber pads this time, so the sheets needed to add some color to his new bed.

I found these two seersucker ginghams at Walmart.  (We have one of the last remaining fabric departments at our Walmart.  It's nice, until you need someone to cut for you...I waited 20 minutes with two screaming kids for this fabric!!)

After I washed and dried the fabric to preshrink, (never skip this step!!) I cut each one into a rectangle measuring 68 x 45 inches.

Then I folded it into quarters (four layers), lined up the corners, and cut an 8-inch square from each corner.

Now each corner has an L-shaped cut in it.

Bring the legs of each L together to form a point.  This will make my corner.  Sew using a 1/2 inch seam allowance.

After all the corners were sewn, I finished all the raw edges with a zigzag stitch.  I could have pulled out my serger, but a zigzag works just fine.

I folded over outer edge of the sheet and sewed a 1/2 inch casing around the perimeter.  Then I threaded through 80 inches of 1/4 inch elastic.  I tied the two ends together, sewed the casing shut, and it was finished!

This is an easy sewing project for anyone.  The fabric cost me $4.50 a yard, so each sheet was $9.  A little more than a plain white sheet, but these ones make the bed look just right for a little boy.  Which he needs, because just two feet away from his bed it looks like this:

This is the only corner of the room without giant flowers painted on it, so this corner is all about Eli.

Come back next time, and I'll show you what he's looking at.

::

And check out this post to see how I made the big flowers on the wall.

 

Entryway :: Sources and Links

 

Well, here we are.  The entryway is finished.  For now.

There are little things that I would like to change here and there, like the trim color, the light fixture, new umbrella stand, etc, but for now, it's exactly what I want.

It helps our family function, it expresses our style (which I'm starting to call cottage industrial...), and it includes personal touches.

Here's what it used to look like:

And now:

I'm still so surprised at what a differnce the black door made..

Here's some of the breakdown of prices and sources:

Door $20

Wall paint $28

Mirrors $38

Mirror hanger $10

Coat Rack $28

Bench $65

_______________

Total $189

 

colors:

door -  Martha Stewart Francesca

walls - Behr Vanilla Milkshake

coat rack - Behr Ultra Pure White

bench top - Varathane Early American

bench base - Behr Mermaid Treasure

Want the details on each of these projects?  Click on the photos below:

So...what to work on next?

I've already got a couple projects going, which you know about if you follow me on facebook.  I just started a photo album of progress shots of current projects.  If you haven't yet, go on over there and "like" my page, so you can see what's coming up before it hits the blog.

"Like" us on facebook here.

 

 

 

 

Entryway :: Flip-Top Turquoise Bench

Remember this sad little number?

I found this little padded bench years ago at a second-hand store.  I always planned on making a new cushion for it, but that just never happened.  When I started working on the entryway, I was considering painting it and leaving it in the room.

That was before I discovered Ana White.

Ana is a mom who lives in Alaska, designs furniture, and posts the plans on her website for free so others can build it.

She also wrote a book.

This is not chunky, clunky homemade-looking furniture, either.  She takes her inspiration from top furniture retailers, and shows you how to build it yourself at home. 

She's the reason Donnie got me the pocket hole jig for my birthday.

I knew, as soon as I saw it, that I wanted to build her flip-top bench for my entryway.  It's been on my pinboard for months.  So, while Donnie was out of town on one of his many summer youth trips, I decided to build it myself.  I took the plans, and the cuts needed up to Home Depot and had them cut it there.  It takes forever to do it that way, but I was a little nervous to use the miter saw on my first time out.

I got home and made my first pocket hole joint.

I think I watched her how-to video on this about 10 times before I felt like I was ready.

By about midnight I had the frame made and was filling those pocket holes with spackle.  This cell phone pic I sent to my mom is the only one I have of this stage.

Who wants to stop and take pictures when they're on a roll?

As it turned out, two of the cuts made at the hardware store were too long, so I had to use the miter saw anyway.  I'm glad no one was watching.  It took me 20 minutes to figure out how to turn the thing on! I'd watched Donnie (and years ago, my dad) use it many times, but I'd never noticed that step!  There are several safety knobs, and a button for your thumb to get the blade going. Tricky.

Next was the paint.

Mermaid Treasure by BEHR. I wanted something bright for the room, since most of it is pale or neutral.  And on the wall directly opposite of the entry is my giant orange sign.  So this would balance it out.

Two coats of paint:

Pretty bright, huh?  Well, it's not staying that way.  I don't like distressing details on every piece of furniture, but I wanted to try out a new technique.

You lightly sand the corners to let the wood show through.

Then, working in sections, wipe on some wood stain in an even layer, and then immediately wipe it off with a different rag.  The effect is a subtly aged look, and the sanded edges pick up the stain.

Love this.

It was simple, and it doesn't have that look that says, "HEY I DISTRESSED THIS FURNITURE MYSELF!!" That look stresses me out.

For the top of the flip-top bench, I wanted to use the same wood stain and leave the wood grain finish.  The stain I used is Varathane Early American.  It is nice and rich without any orange undertones. Very pretty.

I did about 2 coats on either side. I stained it before attaching it to the bench, because I didn't want any light wood peaking through when the hinges were used.

Attaching the top was the most nerve-wracking part of the whole build. I measured and measured to make sure I was even on both sides (2 inches) with an inch hanging off the back.  Then I measured some more, and marked 6 dots where the screws would go.  I'm pleased to say that not a single screw went through the storage portion of the box.  It pays to be careful with measurements!

The lid of the storage section was attached by simply screwing the hinges to the back, and then the lid.  Pre-drilling the holes made this a cinch.

I made this bench, from start to finish, in about 3 days.  The directions were easy to follow, and the plans were accurate. 

I didn't tell Donnie about it when he got back from his trip.  Instead, I waited until the morning of his birthday:

It was a fun surprise.  After all, he taught me almost everything I know about building things.

And now, with one woodworking project behind me, I am hooked.  I keep looking through the Ana White book and website trying to decide which one to start next.  Maybe some shelves for Emma's growing book collection...

Entryway :: Vintage Mirror Collage

When we first started working on our entryway, it looked like this:

And last time you saw it, it looked like this:

When I'm thinking about a room, and how I want to change it, I have three goals in mind.  I want it to be pretty, functional, and personal. 

We are on our way to pretty, but while the extra hooks have done wonders for function, we could really use a mirror to check hair and makeup before leaving the house.

On my inspiration board, when we first started the makeover, I added a photo of a collage of vintage beveled mirrors.

I thought this would be no big deal, as I had recently found a pretty oval-shaped mirror at a thrift store for around $8.  But as I started looking around for its mates, I realized what a treasure that eight-dollar mirror had actually been.  Whether on Craigs List, in antique stores, or online, every vintage beveled mirror I found was somewhere between $75-200.  Way out of my price range.  After months of searching, I found one at an antique shop,  covered in a painted scene, for $24.  About a week later I found another one in awful condition at a thrift store for $4.  But when I say awful...well you'll see.

Here is the rag tag trio of mirrors I had to work with.

The oval-shaped mirror only needed to be cleaned. I'd been storing it for about 6 months, jammed behind the TV in the living room.

The octagon, while most expensive, and in great shape, needed the most work. 

I'm sure this scene would be beautiful in the right home, but that home isn't ours.  I wasn't sure if it was wrong in some way to remove the paint.  It had clearly been done a long time ago.  But in the end, on my third trip to the same store to look at it, I decided that it would be better in my house, than waiting in an antique store.

The dress is actually 3-dimensional. I had no idea if it would even come off at all.  I bought a pack of razor blades and started scraping.  (If you do this, wear a mask to protect your lungs from the dust.  There's no telling how much lead was in that paint!)

It worked!  In about 15 minutes, the mirror was completely paint-free.  The 3-D piece had to be gently pried up with the tip of a butter knife.  The glue was stubborn, but it dissolved in a spray of all-purpose cleaner and then wiped right off.

Two down, one to go.

This mirror was in the worst condition possible.  I actually didn't buy it the first time I saw it, because it was such a lost cause.  It wasn't beveled.  It was actually salvaged from the top of a dresser, and that's its broken frame in the photo above, wrapped in tape.  The silver was flaking off pretty badly, which is kind of great, but I had to figure out a way to stop it.  And since there was no wood on the back, there was no way to hang it. 

To stop the silver from rubbing off, I bought a piece of chip board (thin, sturdy cardboard) at Hobby Lobby, and cut it to fit the back of the mirror exactly.  I didn't glue it or anything, just kept the two together until I could get it hung up.

I searched online for the clips that usually hold beveled mirrors to their wooden backs, but there was nothing as far as I could tell.  I had almost given up when I thought of this:

Plate and platter hangers are made from wire hooks, connected with sturdy springs.  They stretch a little bit to fit snugly over the edges of the plate.

Every place in town only had the small size, but I eventually got what I needed here .  Of course. I always end up at Amazon.  I do wish that I had gotten one size smaller.  The hanger wasn't as snug as I hoped, and I had to secure the springs with some twine, to keep them from stretching and releasing the mirror onto one of my kids' heads.

I left the chip board behind it , and the platter hanger holds it in place.

I hung the mirrors with sturdy hooks--30 lbs to be safe.  I measured carefully, spacing them 3 inches apart from side to side.  The middle mirror is 1 inch from the coat rack, and the outer mirrors are 2 inches up from it.

I'm really surprised at how much different it feels to walk into the entryway now that the mirrors are up.   It has brought up the level of natural light a lot, since they face some windows in the dining room, and mirrors always give the illusion of more space.

At this point, all there is left to do is replace that sad little bench.  It is completely dwarfed by everything else going on in here.

What are you working on this week, to make your house into a home?

::

Don't forget to like our facebook page.  I just started an "in progress" photo album, where you can see sneak peaks of what I'm working on:

Linking to:

Coastal Charm,  Boogieboard Cottage, Thrifty Decor Chick

 

 

Entryway :: Coat Rack Complete

**Be sure to enter the drawing for Beyond Bath Time by Erin Davis.  Winner will be picked this Friday! Enter here.**

::

The first half of this post was published way back in March, so to avoid making you click back and forth, I'm just re-posting it, along with the finished product.

A couple months ago, Donnie and I started work on our coat rack.  I wanted to make one from scratch for two reasons. One, I need to save money, since everything I do this year for the house is coming out of a tiny pocket-change-sized budget. And two, our entryway is long and skinny, so I wanted a rack that really fit the space.  How hard could it be?

It turns out, not hard at all!

At the hardware store, I bought three pieces of lumber, making sure they were each nice and straight.

1 - 1x6

1 - 1x2

1 - small piece of decorative molding

7 - sturdy hooks

wood screws

I bought 6-ft pieces, so the only thing that needed to be cut was the thin piece of molding.  Easily done with a handsaw.

With Donnie's help, I glued and nailed the 1x2 to the top edge of the 1x6, forming a shallow ledge.  We used a lot of glue, and lots of clamps to keep things in place:

We also glued the trim right under the ledge formed by the 1x2.  The trim won't have any stress from hanging objects, so there was no point in trying to nail such a tiny piece.

Donnie's tip: You can't use too much glue.  And you can't have too many clamps. (Clearly!)

Make sure you wipe up any excess glue drips before it dries!

I filled the nail holes with wood filler, sanded down the rough spots, and started painting.

The paint is just the basic, un-mixed bright white by Behr. 

I wondered if the trim would even show under the ledge when everything was painted, but I think it offers a nice, subtle detail.

I thought about distressing the corners a little with sandpaper, but since this coat rack is about to be used several times a day by six people, I think it will get all the authentic distressing it needs.

Next step: add some cool, chunky hooks, and hang it up!

I found these classic-looking black hooks at Hobby Lobby.  They are so cheap and pretty, that I've been seeing them all over the place.  Search hooks on pinterest, and you're sure to see them.  I bought 7 of them for about $2.50 (maybe $3.50?) each.

Getting the hooks onto the rack with perfect, even spacing is a little tricky, but here's what I did.  Start with the two outer hooks.  Measure 2 inches from each end and attach those hooks first. Then, measure the distance between the two outer hooks, divide it in half, and place the center hook at this measurement.  Lastly, measure the distance between the center and outer hooks to determine the spacing for the rest of the hooks.  I think ours were around 11" apart, but be sure to measure and place them visually before screwing them in.

Donnie screwed the rack right into the studs, and then I filled the holes and repainted over them.

We love the rack.  It has been up for a few weeks, and it has already proved to be hard-working and critical.  I don't know how I lived with that tiny one for so long!  Making the rack only cost $25-30.  Imagine what a 6-ft rack would cost at Home Goods!

Here's the progress on the entryway so far:

Still on the list are: hang some mirrors above the hooks, replace the bench with something longer, and find something else to hold the umbrellas.  Not too bad. 

Here are some other project posts you might want to check out while you wait:

Interior Front Door

Entryway Paint Color

Entryway Inspiration

Entryway :: Coat Rack part 1

This week Donnie and I started work on our coat rack.  I wanted to make one from scratch for two reasons. One, I need to save money, since everything I do this year for the house is coming out of a tiny pocket-change-sized budget. And two, our entryway is long and skinny, so I wanted a rack that really fit the space.  How hard could it be?

It turns out, not hard at all!

At the hardware store, I bought three pieces of lumber, making sure they were each nice and straight.

1 - 1x6

1 - 1x2

1 - small piece of decorative molding

I bought 6-ft pieces, so the only thing that needed to be cut was the thin piece of molding.  Easily done with a handsaw.

With Donnie's help, I glued and nailed the 1x2 to the top edge of the 1x6, forming a shallow ledge.  We used a lot of glue, and lots of clamps to keep things in place:

We also glued the trim right under the ledge formed by the 1x2.  The trim won't have any stress from hanging objects, so there was no point in trying to nail such a tiny piece.

Donnie's tip: You can't use too much glue.  And you can't have too many clamps. (Clearly!)

Make sure you wipe up any excess glue drips before it dries!

I filled the nail holes with wood filler, sanded down the rough spots, and started painting.

The paint is just the basic, un-mixed bright white by Behr. 

I wondered if the trim would even show under the ledge when everything was painted, but I think it offers a nice, subtle detail.

I thought about distressing the corners a little with sandpaper, but since this coat rack is about to be used several times a day by six people, I think it will get all the authentic distressing it needs.

Next step: add some cool, chunky hooks, and hang it up!

Here are some other posts you might want to check out while you wait:

Interior Front Door

Entryway Paint Color

Entryway Inspiration